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Most
of the north coast falls under the regency
of Buleleng, the capital city of which, Singaraja,
was once Bali’s chief port. This long contact
with outside influences in reflected in the
ethnic diversity of its population and as
a starting place for new artistic developments,
which later spread south. The ruling house
came to power in the17th century and conquered
parts of Karangasem, Jembrana and East Java,
forming an alliance with Mengwi that lasted
until the end of the 18th century when Karangasem
returned to power and took Buleleng. During
the mid 1800s the Dutch defeated Buleleng
in their first attempt to take Bali, making
Singaraja the island’s first capital, as evident
in the abundance of colonial architecture
that remains standing there to this day.
Traditional arts
The colonial influence on Singaraja is also
evident in the housing there of Bali’s largest
collection of lontar palm-leaf books, in the
Gedong Kirtya library. It is to here that
many a post-colonial researcher flocks, desperately
seeking wisdom in their ongoing scrutiny of
Bali.
Temple-going
The coastal road leading both east and west
of Singaraja leads past dramatic ocean scenes
and a number of interesting temples. The road
west, which leads to the low-key, relaxed
tourist resort of Lovina, passes the temples
of Pulaki and Dalem Melanting. The road east
passes the elaborately carved Pura Beji at
Sangsit and Pura Maduwe Karang at Kubutambahan,
with its famous flower-wheeled bicycle relief.
The Pura Dalam temple at Jagaraga also has
peculiarly modern reliefs, depicting planes
and car robberies.
Eco-tours
For visitors who are also nature-lovers, Buleleng
provides joyful relief. Firstly, the district
boasts the crisp, misty highland area which
harbours Gitgit Falls. Down by the coast,
east of Singaraja, there are natural springs
at both Air Panas (hot) and Air Saneh (cold).
And at Lovina, sightings of dolphins leaping
beyond the black sand beaches are frequent.
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